army painter quickshade instead of painting

#Army painter quickshade instead of painting pdf

This is, of course my own personal experience between the two, another Dakka member might have had different results between the methods, But where ive just been working on afew units of bone white skeletons using the dip method, i think it should give a close example to a standard menoth color set. Secondly, it should give a subtle gradient to your flat surfaces, giving alittle more interest to what would have otherwise been a single shade, without, if its applied correctly, leaving behind patches of pigment that mar your color and work. First, like the oil wash it should pick out and shade the crevices, and line around detail. Using a Polyurethane dip, such as the Army Painter Quickshade, or even going the cheeper route and picking some minwax wood stain, It should work two fold. Over a flat surface, from what i've noticed, the oil wash tends to clump and dry into not so pleasant looking blotches of pigment. Using an Oil wash, your primary goal is to line and shade all areas that are sunken into the miniature, or act as a borderline between say, the greater shoulder pad, and the menofix in the center. In the picture below, you can see the paint brush I use and some of those torn up, rolled up paper towel pieces.The general thought, at least on my end, is something like this. Watch for joints, on weapon blades, and in places like the eye sockets, mouth, and ears. I use this to absorb some of the puddles of the Quick Shade that form. If you miss a spot, it will be obvious when it starts to dry.Īfter I paint it on, I then have little rolls of torn up paper towel. I painted these miniatures with a two step process. I decided to use Matt White instead of Skeleton Bone because I knew that my wash would darken the miniatures giving it a similar effect to the other color.

You have to make sure you paint everywhere on the model. The Army Painter has a color called Skeleton Bone. That way, when you flip it back for drying, gravity will help put the goo where you want it. You want to paint on the Quick Shade while the miniature is held upside down. This stuff will ruin the brush so make sure it's a paint brush you don't care about. The ogres are a little bigger so I use the 'paint on' method. I put that clip assembly into my drill, attach it to the miniature's base, submerge it upside down, and spin the mini around in a cardboard box to get off the excess goo.

I have a small alligator clip that I attached to a section of an old paintbrush. On smaller models, I just use a drill and spin the miniature after dipping it. There's a couple different ways to apply the Quick Shade. I'm more interested in a strong, consistent flesh tone. I'm not very careful in where the paint goes at this stage. I use multiple thin coats of Tallarn Flesh by GW. In this case, I just used the GW Black Primer. If you're a painter like me or even if you're just curious what the Quick Shade or 'dip' method can do, read on. If I get 90-95% of the mold lines off I'm happy. I'm constantly distracted and I'm one of those people who paints out of the paint pot instead of using a palette (more specifically painting out of the lid after dropping in a drop or two of water to thin it out). I've painted some miniatures I'm proud of in the past, but I don't have the patience to do anything more than tabletop quality in large quantities. I'll also preface this by saving I am not a 'good' painter. I'm trying to use him as a Maneater (even though he's not really customized to any extent).

#Army painter quickshade instead of painting pdf

If you go the ArmyPainter's site, they have a painting guide pdf that mentions the glossy finish of the models after quickshade. All of these guys have been done with the dark brush-on shade. The other closed-fist hand is just a normal hand with the sword carved off. They are pretty glossy if you don't put a matte varnish after the quickshade. The miniature that I'm using is just an Ogre Bull with a handgun from one of the cavalry sprues. I hope the pictures are good enough so that people who are interested can tell what I'm doing. This is going to be a lot of pictures, so I apologize in advance if you're bandwidth starved. I'm not trying to push their product or anything, but I thought I would give a demo of what kind of results I got.

In doing so, I decided I'd try to use some of the Army Painter Quick Shade that I bought. Most of the stuff I got was primered or unpainted so I thought I would sit down and try to quickly paint up a force that I wouldn't mind setting up on the table. I had recently traded some stuff on Bartertown (for a relatively large Ogre Kingdoms army for Warhammer Fantasy. You want to bring good looking minis to the table, but you know that time is at a premium. Before anyone starts to think this blog is only about Warmachine & Hordes, I thought I would bring back a panting guide I wrote up a little more than a year ago.Īlmost anyone who likes playing miniatures games knows how frustrating it can be finding time to paint.